Sod Varieties
Kentucky Blue Grass
The most widely used turfgrass in the Tri-State area. About 95% of all lawns and parks are Kentucky Bluegrass. Bluegrass produces a fine dense textured turf which can stand up to heavy traffic and use. Bluegrass is a rhizomatous turf that spreads through underground roots (or rhizomes) and produces new grass plants to stay dense and thick. It is deep green in color and is very heat and cold tolerant. Bluegrass also is very drought resistant and will go dormant in the heat of the summer if not watered. Once it cools down in the fall and warms up in the spring, bluegrass fills itself in. If you want a fine lawn that can take a lot of abuse from kids and dogs, bluegrass is an excellent choice.
Can become dormant & survive 1 to 2 months without irrigation once it is established
Most common choice for this area
Best option for high traffic area, children, or pets
MicroClover
A blend of Kentucky Blue Grass, Tall Fescue, and Micro-Clover know as the "lazy Yard". Our organic hybrid product does not require fertilizer or pesticides. It pulls nitrogen from the air to naturally fertilize the grass plants. Our Microclover blend will improve lawn color, increase drought tolerance, and crowd out the weeds. This product is the ideal choice for anyone looking to have an instant yard with little work.
Drought Resistant
Does well in full sun to partially shaded areas
Very easy to grow and establish
Fixes soil nitrogen for a green, lush, thick lawn
Fescue
Fescue is sometimes used due to its ability to go longer between watering. Fescue is able to develop a deep root system in deep tilled soil, so it can capture water from a greater soil depth. This can translate into less irrigation or fewer waterings per week. Tall Fescue is very heat and cold tolerant, it has good green color and a medium size blade.
Can root very deep and pulls water from deeper down in the soil.
Deep soil prep is recommended prior to sodding.
Good turf quality, medium green, medium texture
Sod VS Seed
The Superior Choice for a Beautiful Lawn
Advantages of Installing a Sod Lawn
Many people face the same decision- install sod grass or seed. Installing a lawn with sod grass has several advantages over growing grass seed. Growing grass from seed is a process that takes time, patience, and a lot of tender loving care versus getting instant gratification and satisfaction by installing a sod lawn.
If your lawn is tired, mostly thin grass and lots of weeds, needing renovation, or even if no lawn at all, there are several reasons to consider installing a lawn of sod grass:
1. Sod grass produces a finished lawn immediately and it is instantly attractive.
We all like things done right away, but let’s face it, what is wanted is a lawn capable of being the envy of friends and neighbors alike. This is the quickest way to enjoy the lawn on a warm sunny day. And as an added bonus, the instant lawn eliminates the prospect of mud during the many weeks (or months) it takes for a grass seed lawn to become established.
2. A sod grass lawn costs less.
Yes, you heard us right! While sod grass seems more expensive at the start, it saves money in the end. Growing a lawn from seed requires time and money spent on weed control, extra fertilization, and overseeding newly seeded lawns in their second season.
3. A sod grass lawn is healthier.
Sod enjoys the best soil, regular fertilization, and generous watering for strong root development. We do the hard part, you get a beautiful green lawn for years to come.
4. Sod makes for a denser lawn.
We start with Gold Tag Seed and nurture the sod grass for a year before it is ready to be harvested. This allows for a thick beautiful product, so there are no bare spots and reseeding is not necessary.
5. Sod has no weeds.
The new sod grass has no weeds because it is professionally grown. Also, our thick, lush grass discourages weed seed germination, minimizing the need to use herbicides in the future.
6. Sod prevents soil erosion.
Sod instantly prevents the erosion of precious topsoil in lawn areas that are sloped or hilly. It is an immediate solution to messy washouts due to heavy rain.
For any future patchwork, we offer our custom blend, Gold Tag, grass seed. Of course, we always allow for small quantity pick ups as well.
How to Measure
Here's how to measure your yard for sod. Grab a piece of paper and draw the areas to be sodded. Break up the areas into the shapes listed below. Measure the areas and write down your measurements. You will now be able to calculate the area of your lawn. Don’t be afraid to use the equations here to help you figure the correct amount of sod grass needed.
Square or Rectangle
Start by measuring the Length & Width and multiply. (Length x Width = Area) and this will give you the area of a square or rectangle
Right Triangle
A Right Triangle has one 90º corner. To figure the area of a right triangle, multiply the two sides that contact the right angle and divide by 2
Length x Width / 2 = Area
Circle
To figure the area of a circle, take the radius times the radius, then multiply by 3.14. Radius is a straight line from the center of a circle to the outside of the circle.
(Radius x Radius) x 3.14 = Area
Preparation and Installation
Make your DIY job look professional
Layout your yard
Sketch out a plan taking into account any permanent objects (concrete, utilities etc.), mulch, flower beds, trees, hardscapes, and fences.
Think ahead! It is important to think about how you can access sod areas easily. You may want to leave a fence panel out and gates open. Paths through beds and rock areas can be completed and filled in after sod is installed.
Soil Preparation
Clear areas to be sodded of rock, concrete, and debris. Spray with a weed killer to kill any undesirable weeds or grasses and let sit one week. Repeat if necessary, then remove weeds by mowing, raking or scraping. Fill in any major depressions and rough grade for desired drainage. We always recommend there is at least two inches of loose soil- whether this comes from tilling what is already present or bringing in topsoil.
Install Sprinkler System
It may be an added upfront cost, but over time will be well worth it. A properly designed sprinkler system will save water, time, and money in the long run and add value to your home, not to mention help you maintain a beautiful green lawn. Here are the benefits of a Sprinkler System:
Apply water in a uniform, efficient manner
Set timing and the system takes care of the rest
Water in multi cycles to prevent run-off and encourage deep rooting.
Water when you are away.
Fine Grade
Fine grade the lawn area after sprinkler system is installed with a landscape rake. Break up clods of dirt into less than 3/4”, and remove any large rocks. Soil should be 1” below patios, sidewalks, driveways and edging. The final fine graded area should be smooth and clump-free. Sod will follow the contour of the ground and it is very difficult to adjust grade after the sod is installed.
Installation
Apply Starter fertilizer to the bare ground before installing sod.
Install the first line of sod following a sidewalk, fence or edging to keep rows straight and minimize cutting. Cut the first piece of the next line in half so you can stagger the rows like brickwork. If you are installing sod on a hill, start at the bottom. This makes it easier to pull the sod into place and get a tight fit. If the hill is steep, anchor the sod in place with wooden stakes or sod staples (we offer these).
Pull pieces tightly together making sure ends and edges are butted together tightly. Open joints let air get to the roots along the edges causing them to dry out and wilt. Also, DO NOT OVERLAP as the same results will occur. Use a knife to cut the sod to fit where you do not need a full piece. Fill in any small voids with pieces cut to fit the area. If you are working in very hot weather, as soon as you have finished an area large enough to water, set a sprinkler and let it run while you are installing the next area. All sodded areas must be adequately watered as soon as possible.
Rolling the yard is not necessary but will help the soil to sod contact. It will also smooth out minor imperfections of the grade if rolled when the ground below the sod is a little squishy and sod has been watered. Roll with the longest seams.
Sod Care
Watering
Proper Watering is the key to establishing a new sod grass lawn. It is vital to keep it properly watered for the first month. During and immediately after installing sod grass, water thoroughly making it spongy to the step. The new sod grass should be kept thoroughly wet to a depth of 4" to 6" and watered 1 to 2 times a day during the first 7 to 14 days depending on the season and the temperature. We suggest 1 inch a day as a guide- you will have to adjust based on your location and irrigation system.
Tip- To check the depth of moisture, take a screwdriver and place in the soil 4-6 inches. If it goes in easy the soil is moist. If it is hard to get in then the soil is dry and you need to increase your watering.
The first week, it is very important to keep the new sod grass damp. During this time, stay off the sod grass to allow it to fully root. During hot weather, sprinklers should run several times a day so the new sod never dries out. If allowed to dry out the sod will shrink, turn brown and can die. The roots of your new sod will penetrate the soil faster and root down sooner if properly watered.
The following 2 weeks are used to transition from frequent daily watering to fewer watering cycles per day and increasing the number of days between watering. During week 3, start reducing watering times per day and skip a day between watering if new sod is not drying out. By week 4, water 1-2 times every other day. After week 4, your new yard should be ready to go 2-3 days between watering. Water your lawn in the early morning when less evaporation occurs.
First Mowing
Your new lawn should be mowed at the end of week 3. If your new lawn reaches over 3 1/2”, mow off a third of the length even if it has not been three weeks. Do not cut shorter than 2" for the first few times mowing. Exercise caution the first time you mow so you do not damage or pull up the sod.
Guarantee
As your local sod farm, we stand behind our products. Our Sod Guarantee Program takes some engagement from our customers, but we truly believe that this will help ensure sod success. Follow along the guidelines in our Sod Guarantee for installation tips and tricks, and to protect your investment! If all installation steps were followed correctly and your sod is still not right, we will replace all defective product. (Delivery not included)
Terms and Conditions
The homeowner properly prepared the area where the sod is to be laid prior to receiving your delivery as per our easy to follow guide.
At least one to three inches of quality topsoil exists or was added to the installation area prior to laying down the turf and all sod rolls have total soil-sod contact.
Sod was installed in the first 6 hours after delivery and watered within the first 15 minutes of unrolling it. Also, the homeowner must have an in-ground , automatic sprinkler system.
A sensible effort was put forth by the homeowner to properly maintain the new sod. This means following proper installation procedures, a watering schedule, as well as fertilizing and mowing as found in our easy to follow guide.
Sod was not damaged by person(s) or animals, digging, walking or disturbing the newly rooted turf
Damage done by extreme weather conditions including flooding, hail, fire etc. will not be covered
Improper use of chemicals and/or fertilizers resulting in “burnt turf” is excluded from the warranty
New sod must receive proper sunlight (minimum of 6 hours per day) in order to be covered under warranty
The following Maintenance Requirements must be performed during the growing season after a proper installation in order for the warranty to be eligible:
Fertilize your new lawn a minimum of two (2) times per year. Soil samples should be taken annually. If a soil sample is unattainable, apply a fertilizer with a balanced ratio of 2-1-2 at the following “N” (nitrogen) levels: for passive lawn areas, apply a minimum of 4 lbs of nitrogen per 1000 square feet per year; for medium to high traffic areas, apply a minimum of 6 lbs of actual nitrogen per 1000 square feet per year. Apply fertilizer according to this schedule: first day of Spring, first day of Summer, first day of Fall. Optionally fertilize after your last day of mowing before winter dormancy.
Mow your new lawn a minimum of once per week, and twice per week during peak growing season (mid Spring/early Summer). NEVER REMOVE MORE THAN 1/3 OF THE GRASS BLADE. Ideal mowing height is 2.5 to 2.75 inches.
For passive lawn areas ensure your new lawn receives a minimum of one (1) inch of water per week and for high traffic areas up to two inches of water per week. Water deeply but infrequently.